The Reeds

I think I told you that I didn`t end up staying with a family on the island because the leader thought that the hike up the mountain with the altitude would be too much for me. Every time I walk up anywhere, I really get out of breath.
I did visit some floating islands with another group that was arranged for me. Uros people have made boats from special reeds for centuries and then they just kept tying them up together until they formed floating islands which they live on. The reed is used for everything...they even eat it.

In the afternoon, I went with a group on another tour to see some ancient burial grounds about 45 minutes by car from Puno. We had to walk up a mountain again, but this time it wasn`t so steep. However, it started to rain, pour and there was thunder and lightening as we wallked around the ruins from pre-Inca times. It was very dramatic. Then the driver of the van couldn't see out of the window because the defroster wasn't working, so I had to keep wiping the windshield )I was sitting up front). It really was quite the storm. Huge hail stones came down and we arrived at the hotel and it was like freezing rain, so slippery. We were all soaked to the skin and no where to dry off. There is no heat, hair dryer or dryer in this hotel.

Some of my things are now dry. We are going by bus to Cuzco (7.5) hours in a few minutes.

The past few days in Peru

Here is what has happened over the past few days.

We've been travelling around the country by bus for hours on end. But our tour guides are great.
Did I tell you about the dune buggy ride in the desert? If not, I?ll repeat myself and say that it was truly awesome, in the real sense of the word. That was followed by a plane ride over the Nazca lines which I decided to forego, since I was nauseous for a few days after the buggy ride. But the Nazca lines are symbols which are centuries old drawn by the Nazca population over a huge area in the desert and these symbols are still a mystery.

We also visited a cemetery that day and it was truly unusual in that many skulls and bones were on display in the graves. They have lasted for centuries as well because this area of Peru gets almost no rain throughout the year.

From our overnight bus ride to Arequipa (a large city) in the south...you need to consult a map) we spent a day looking at museums before we embarked to the Colca Canyon. Apparently, it is the deepest canyon in the world at 4200 m. The countryside was sensational with many varieties of vegetation, rock formations and the Colca river running through it all. Here are some facts I picked up from the guide. The Colca Valley has 80 different kinds of potatoes, 400 kinds of quinoa, barley, wheat, oats, corn and beans. It is very lush and has a system of terracing which has been in place for over 1000 years . We stopped several times in a town called Chivay which was extremely hard to get to because of the long and winding dirt road. The hotel we were staying at was called Mamma Yachi's and it was along even more dirt roads. Of all the hotels we have been in, this one was the best. The views of the mountains, volcanoes with snow and varieties of flora and fauna were outstanding.

I must also add that this is the country of sheep, goats, vicuñas (their national animal), llamas and alpacas(all from the camelid family). They are everywhere, even in the hotel lobby, as a pet. WE got a lesson in the differences among these animals, and I can now point them out. Markets abound with women in traditional dress selling the crafts from alpacas, sheep, etc.

This is also condor country and the Andean condor is the biggest flying bird in America. We spent the better part of the day trying to see them fly. It is currently the rainy season, so they don't congregate in groups as much. But after going to one crossing and sitting around in the fog, we found another spot where the sun shone gloriously and there were some flying condors . >My photos cannot do them justice...their wing span is immense.

Another fun activity in the Colca Canyon was our day at the thermal baths. >it was pouring rain, but the baths at 38 d. C. were hot and relaxing. We kept bumping into the other tourists we had met 2 or 3 towns ago. Everyone takes the same route, so I kept running into a fellow Canadian )from North york) almost at every stopping.

Our time in the Colca Canyon ended with a dinner and some Andean singing and dancing. What a bargain for a great meal and entertainment at about $7 a person.

I'm currently in Puno which is the highest elevation we are going to. Getting here took an entire day again, but we stopped for pink flamingoes and lakes along the way. Puno is on Lake Titicaca which is the high fresh water lake in the world. It is huge and very deep at 285m. Iam having trouble with the elevation in Puno. Just walking along the street, makes me pant. (11,000ft. or so)

Today we crossed the reeds of lake Titicaca. That´s what grows in the lake and keeps it from being totally polluted. We visited a small island in the lake...Uros where the ancient traditions are still very much in place. The hike up the mountain to the central square and the restaurant we were dining in, almost did me in. In fact, I had my own personal guide carrying my pack and picking muña leaves to help me breathe easier. I was to spend a night with a family in their house on another island, but I was brought back to town by my guide when they saw how my laboured my pace was. I will meet the group tomorrow on an island made entirely of reeds.

Soon, it's time for another long bus ride...to Cusco. Apparently, although quite high, it's lower than Puno, so maybe I'll have more luck breathing.

Hasta luego,
Sylvia

Peru

Hi ALL,
I had a Wow day yesterday. We went on a boat to Ballestas islands and saw tons of birds and sea lions, seals teaching their young to swim. It was a poor man´s Galapagos, since it only took a couple of hours, but I think we actually saw more birds and animals than on my Galapagos portion.

Then it was on to a vineyard to see how they make the national drink Pisco which tastes great when you sweeten it up and add lime and an egg. We had lunch at the vineyard and although the weather is sweltering, we ate under the bamboo covering, so it was bearable.

After that, we went on a dune buggy ride in the desert. Image a roller coaster at the EX times 3. I couldn´t believe the angles at which the driver did the slopes. I didn´t participate in the sandsliding, but the young ones and 1 older brave man did. I merely took photos.

Exhausted by that, I fell asleep in the bus as we went to our next stop, through switchbacks in the mountains and overlooking sad little huts (not even like succahs) in our travels to the Nazca tower. from which we saw one of the Nazca lines....a couple of hands drawn in the desert hundreds of years ago and still clearly visible for a number of reasons, one of which is that it doesn´t rain more than 30 minutes a year here.

I just got up from the computer this second because there was a minor earthquake. Everything shook, it lasted a few seconds. it is apparently common.
We finally arrived at an out of the way hotel. That was exciting too, because I discovered a huge black insect on my bed. It was stifling in my room, only a ceiling fan which didn´t do much for me.

Today I am suffering the effects of the dune buggy ride, I haven´t been able to keep food down.

While the others took a small plane to see the Nazca lines, I´ve been nursing my stomach. I didn´t get much better as we went to a cemetery which I normally like, but we saw skulls with hair and babies swaddled in cloths, so it was kind of eery.

Tonight, we are taking an overnight bus to Arequipa, which will bring us to a different area of Peru, more high, but also cooler.

I am having fun. The people in the group and the leaders are great! It´s just a very fast pace.
That´s it for now, guys!

VIP Lounge

This is the way to travel. I'm in the V ip lounge in Quito. I am going
business class to \Lima. This room has everything....the best tortillas
I-ve had since arriving, all kinds of drinks, wonderful magazines and
internet! Also , I-ve dodged my roomate. Yes, I have a roommate from
Toronto, who is following my footsteps. I-m trying to do my own thing and
she hers.

Galapagos was great, except for the ship. We had 13 passengers, about half
from Toronto and environs. Saw sea lions, seals, iguanas, sharks, snakes
and different kinds of birds. \i-m not a fan of boats especially in rough
seas, so I'm glad it was only for 3 nights. It was amazing though, lots of
lava rock and crashing waves. A bit reminiscent of new Zealand, actually.
We went on hikes and did snorkelling. \unfortunately, my mask didn't fit
very well or i didn't fit it. So I gazed at the colored fish and sharks
from the safety of the boat. m\aybe next time, I-ll try it again, but the
sensation of the salt water in my nose and mouth was less than great.

Just came back to shower and sleep in Quito for one night and as I said
before, I-m off to Lima. Quito is actually quite pleasant for me, since it
is springlike and and about 24 C as I hear that the weather at home is
snowy.

Hasta la vista. I-m going to sample the fruits in the lounge.

Galapagos

Tonight i met the people on my trip. There are a mother-daughter team and
father-daughter team a few couples and an obnoxious woman from Toronto. The
person who is sharing my room hasn't arrived yet. I had to move rooms 3
times. first one was full of smoke, 2nd one there was no air, no window to
open. Now i'm in another one, still hot. the cheaper hotel was actually
better, with hotter water, windows and less noise. it's only for tonight,
so it's OK.

Went to the top of the mountain in a cable car to 4100 m. today. So
sunburnt even though i was wearing long sleeves and put on suntan lotion.

It's supposed to be 35 degrees in Galapagos and water is 25. Should be
good.

Otavalo

Just got back from our excursion to Otavalo. Stayed in the
mountains...absolutely stunning. We were up at 7: a.m. to go to the animal
market and then the other markets. Didn't b uy a thing.

Saw a crater in a lake, had a walk to the waterfalls along with 3 dogs who
kept sniffing me. Yesterday we met 3 pigs in the woods along the path to
the cascadas.

Freezing in the mountains at night. I had a fireplace in my room and it
warmed it up a bit.

Hi all,
Just getting ready to take off for the big adventure down south. Have to be at the airport at 5:00a.m. and switch planes 3 times to get to Quito(my first stop). I'll write when I arrive there.